Monday, 31 January 2011
For a girl that is usually dressed in black whatever the occasion, weather or season, coming to terms with the sudden show of colour in the Spring/Summer collections for me, has been slightly overwhelming but also captivatingly irresistible. The colour black has always been there for me, it’s become a form of security and when in doubt about what to wear for any sort of occasion black has been the safety net of my wardrobe. Not only have my favourite dresses, jeans and shoes been black, but so have my favourite accessories and with the sudden dramatic show of colour on the catwalks in New York, London, Paris and Milan, could I possibly be prepared to say goodbye to black and welcome this new wave of colour with open arms? At the Jil Sander show the use of this bright block colouring was very prominent. Fluoro side-split belled skirts in the shades of pink, green and orange dressed with a simple plain white tee were being paraded down the catwalk, making a brilliantly bold statement. Sea blue dresses with see-through orange bags followed closely; while yellow bell bottomed trousers with green jackets were not too far behind. But what I found most visually stunning about this designers show was an orange silk blend dress. This dress incorporated everything that was exciting about this show; being flirty, bold and slightly sporty it’s showing a new way of dressing that has not been seen since Balenciaga circa 1960 and it’s stimulating to see a form of elegance and confidence put together in the most simplistic and stylistic way. So is this show enough to change my mind and take the plunge of being bold and colourful? Well maybe not as vibrant as some designer’s vision has gone, but I did feel a new found excitement for colour. So black and I, is the love story over? The answer is no, but I think we shall be having a rest for a while as I embrace the newfound confidence that colour can give.
Sunday, 30 January 2011
When I was a child I remember seeing skinny jeans on my Mother a lot of the time and I always vowed never to wear them, but alas as I grew older and the fashions changed, skinny jeans came back at the end of 2007 and I grew to love them, in fact more than love them adore them. Now with the return of the trouser could the reign of the jean as a wardrobe essential be coming to a untimely end? Trousers are on the rise and whether we choose to accept it or not, they will be everywhere from the high streets to the catwalks for this upcoming season. They have been given a new lease of life, which many women should be prepared to embrace. For a slouched relaxed look Celine shows low-key coolness mixed with the epitome of sophistication, but of course that is the Celine girl all over, dressed smartly but ultimately relaxed and minimalism being a key theme in this season's collection. The use of simple monotone or duotone colours reinforces that minimalistic look that Phoebe Philo is intending to convey. But if this slouched look is not for you, then there are alternatives: the super wide leg trouser makes an excellent statement piece or is a fashionable alternative for a skirt or dress in the evening. Topshop has some excellent choices for us showing one of my favourite trims of the new season, pleats and displaying colours which vary from tobacco to black and my personal favourite olive. These new styles will definitely be seen more and more, and hopefully they shall be here to stay. Nonetheless if you are patriotic to denim then the high waisted flared jean should be on the top of your wish list. Current/Elliot’s the high-rise bell flared jean really does give that ultimate silhouette. Super flattering and leg lengthening these jeans when teamed together with a camel jacket and nude heels really do give off that on point trend - 1970’s glamour.
Saturday, 29 January 2011
Milan possibly the fashion capital of the world, and home to some of today’s most influential designers. For me though when watching the Spring/Summer 2011 shows there was one designers collection that really stood out from the rest. Gucci. Frida Giannini excelled herself in so many ways with this season’s collection. Like an artist she has mixed the colours into one another exquisitely for example turquoise trousers and orange jackets. Previously one may have been afraid to wear these colours together but Giannini has only turned this frightening thought into ultimate glamour she explains “ I pushed the accelerator on the provocation” The daywear show featured laced leather and bare stomachs whilst the models makeup showed red lips and red nails which is rather risqué, for the daytime but for the eveningwear it became darker showing provocation in its true light only more ornate and overstated. In particular one dress that caught my eye was an orange and white one. The way that the dress is cut out in the middle and the white straps engulf one another only oozes elegance and it is the epitome of seduction. Teamed together with a gold belt and its definite high glamour. Frida you did Gucci and Milan proud.
Whereas at Burberry Prorsum it was clear that outerwear from Autumn/ Winter 2010 has clearly influenced this seasons line. Teaming leather jackets (as opposed to aviator ones) with metallic trousers it would appear that the traditional Burberry girl has had a complete make over, and yes it looks fantastic. These leather jackets are phenomenal showing silver spikes on the shoulders giving off the unparalleled biker look. There were ruched mini dresses in colours such as fuchsia and lime that were put together with leather to continue this biker look not forgetting the leopard print dresses that added such exuberance to this collection. With prestigious fashion editor Anna Wintour sitting front row, it clearly was an exceptional show from Christopher Bailey who seems to have turned the clean-cut Burberry girl into something more extraordinary.
At home in London, Richard Nicoll the recently appointed Creative Director of Cerruti has opted to show the era which Glam Rock ended and the Punk began. The muse of his show being Angie Bowie, the former wife of David Bowie, who was known for being the ultimate Glam Rocker with his androgynous alter ego of Ziggy Stardust. The designer explains his collection as “Hard and soft with a touch of sleaze”. Maxi skirts showing one of the favourite colours of Spring/Summer 2011 - orange, were being teamed together with ornate PVC jackets. Nicoll did not stop with just the jackets when it came to PVC there were dresses, and belts that also incorporated this material. Many would not agree with this, but it seems that Nicoll managed the look to perfection.
Whilst over at Marc Jacobs, the Seventies was clearly the inspirational theme of the show. Wild prints and large headwear, big sunglasses with voluminous hair adorning feathers and flowers dominated the catwalk, think Christina Aguilera circa 1990 mixed with the fashion of Farrah Fawcett in the Charlie's Angels era. Clearly Marc Jacobs is taking the Seventies look and making it his own, and the colours.... predominately pinks and purples none of that winter coldness entering the catwalk. There is clearly some high glossy glamour gone into this collection which makes it stand out in comparison to the other New York shows.
In New York we see at Thakoon, a man who has built his career on those elegant summer dresses, channelling some of that elegance into collarless jackets and simple tailored trousers, perfect office-wear, but it was those dresses that were the main point of focus for his collection. Chiffon dresses with delicate fastenings that take you back to hot summer days, flirty and flattering these dresses were defiantly the items that stole the show, and the colours that Thakoon uses definitely not black. Ranging from pale blues to tennis whites with delicate embroidered flowers stitched upon them Thakoon Panichgul shows us that Spring/Summer in New York is definitely all about simplicity and naturalness.
Considering the Autumn/Winter 2010 catwalk collections have been mostly about camel coats, shearling aviator jackets, gothic lace dresses and luxe cashmere knits, varying in colour from black to French navy and from taupe to camel, it is understandable why there is such a contrast for the Spring/Summer 2011 catwalk collections.