After London we head to Milan and straight in with one of my favourite designers, Jil Sander. Head designer Raf Simons always creates an intensely thought provoking collection in which he masters the line to utter perfection, and has women of all ages, lusting and hankering over the collection for the whole season.
Following in fashionable suit from London and New York, the colour white was the foundation colour for this collection. We have crisp cottons bodies, mixed with translucent appendages for the arms and neck, exuding that sassy, sexy yet completely conventional look that the Sander woman entails. The loose horizontal striping and the peter pan collars remind us that Simons work for Sander, is cleverly constructed and evidently, exceptionally absorbing for us as an audience, in other words he has the words ‘master tailor’ down to a fine line.
As the collection develops we saw injections of swirl like patterns in a paisley colour scheme. These patterns were then developed onto skirts, dresses, suits and blouses.
This swirl printing reminded us that serious and grown-up dressing could still have that element of light heartedness. It portrays a strong and empowered sense of ability, but with a twist as it still has those flickers of hearty feminine chic.
Simons then took us on a whirlwind of colour showing off bright emeralds and neon pinks that broke up the monotone colour scheme. It brought a sort of satirical vibrancy to the show. We then see a full skirted white skirt teamed together with a Picasso style faced t-shirt that intertwines the best of the art, and fashion world, compiling an artistic yet modest look.
But it was not just the clothes that gave the elegance and modishness to this collection. The headwear, which was designed by esteemed milliner Stephen Jones, only elevated the glamorous fifties stance that the show had. Everything from the shoes to the little sparkly clasps only reiterated why Simons is where he is.
But for me, that stomach churning moment came at the end of the show, when the Sander bridal wear was shown. To marry in any designer would be a dream come true but to marry in Simons for Sander, well that’s a whole new story.
So you have surpassed everyone again Mr Simons. All I can say is, I am waiting for your Autumn/Winter 2012-13 collection with baited breath.
Images taken from www.nowfashion.com
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